Melissa Dusenberry on sustainability, cultural heritage, and the future of jewelry
By Kristen Oliveri
In a world where luxury often overlooks its origins, Melissa Dusenberry, founder and creative director of All the Brilliants, has built a jewelry brand that does the opposite — one that celebrates craft, cultural history, and conscious creation. Rooted in sustainability and social impact, her work redefines what it means to wear something meaningful, connecting every piece to the stories and communities behind it.
Q: Can you share a bit about your career journey and what ultimately led you to launch All The Brilliants?
A: The journey has been anything but linear! I began as an art director in advertising in New York City, and a decade later, I felt the pull to pursue a fine art career as a painter. After applying to MFA programs and not being accepted, I hit a massive “restart” button and moved to Paris.
What began as a few months became a few years between London and Paris, working as a consulting creative director, to help luxury brands define their vision and voice. One of my clients was a private high jewelry club for high-net-worth women. While diving deeply into jewelry history, craft, and gemstones, my curiosity was lit. At the time, I found challenges in transparency, accessibility, and connection. I thought if I ever started my own business, I would want to solve for that.
Years later, what started as a passion project evolved into All The Brilliants.
Q: What was the inspiration or “spark” behind creating a business rooted in jewelry, cultural history, and social impact?
A: The spark has always been curiosity. When I first discovered the jewelry industry more than a decade ago, it felt intimidating to ask questions like: Why is one gemstone more valuable than another? Where does a gemstone come from, who mined it, and under what conditions?
As someone with a lifelong obsession with art and archaeology, it was a revelation that so much of what we know about our ancient ancestors comes to us through jewelry. Jewelry has always been an expression of what was most meaningful and valuable to ancient cultures.
From gemstones to design iconography, their jewelry reveals cultural identities, belief systems, and, in many cases, just how global we have always been. All The Brilliants creates space for curiosity and transparency in a way that feels accessible and joyful.
Q: You emphasize restoring intention and connection in jewelry. How do you bring that philosophy to modern buyers?
A: Just as our ancient ancestors created jewelry to reflect who they were and what mattered to them, my work restores that connection. I help people invest in jewelry that tells their story, aligns with their values, and brings what’s inside out. Many of my clients are accomplished, highly visible women who know who they are and what they’re made of. A growing segment is men seeking meaningful gifts for their wives or partners. Through personalized concierge services, I guide them in choosing jewelry that protects their time, honors their vision, and ensures it is a piece she will love.
For collectors, the philosophy centers on rare, discerning pieces with distinctive design signatures that do not look like everything else. When it comes to intention, I prioritize women designers (and wife-and-husband co-founders) who practice responsible sourcing. Beyond “ethical” or “sustainable,” this holistic goal respects people, their skills, and the environment.
A framework that shapes how I curate jewelry for clients is the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). While each is essential, UN SDG 5 (achieving gender equality and empowering all women and girls) fuels me and my work.
Connection comes into play when women want to mark an accomplishment in their life journey, or men seek an engagement ring or jewelry gift to celebrate a milestone. I learn about each client’s story, style, and values to find the perfect piece that feels meant for them.
If it doesn’t exist, I create a bespoke piece imbued with intention and connection.
Q: Why was it important to spotlight jewelry designed by women, and how does that shape the brand?
A: Celebrating and supporting women is central to All The Brilliants’ DNA. When I think of women who changed the world, from Hypatia to Cleopatra to Ruth Bader Ginsburg, I also consider the countless women who were, and continue to be, erased from history.
Beyond our actions, how we present ourselves affirms our presence in the world. From the style of our hair to the clothes we wear, we create a visual language that expresses individuality and signals that we are here to be seen, remembered, and taken seriously.
Fine jewelry takes this to another level. When thoughtfully crafted with precious materials, it can endure for generations. Whether jewelry is a family or modern heirloom, women past, present, and future are part of that story.
The women designers I collaborate with worldwide each have distinctive design signatures and captivating narratives. When you wear Debra Navarro’s jewelry, you feel lit from within every time you see or touch it. With Feral Jewelry by Susan Oster, you connect with a feminine power that feels untamed and wild, yet glamorous and protective.
Discerning jewelry designed by women, especially when you understand the intention behind it, ensures you feel seen, powerful, and unforgettable.
Q: What has been one of the biggest challenges in building All The Brilliants and one of your proudest moments?
A: The biggest challenge has been building All The Brilliants as a solopreneur and doing “all the things.” While I’m my own mini “ad agency”, I’ve had to dig deep and level up skills outside my comfort zone, from SEO to public speaking before large audiences.
My proudest moments are the messages and photos I receive from clients, expressing how they or their loved ones feel when wearing their new jewelry. This affirms the purpose of my work.
Q: For those looking to invest in jewelry more thoughtfully, what advice would you give?
A: Start with intention. When you’re investing in fine jewelry, don’t hesitate to ask where, who, and how the gemstones are sourced, and consider who benefits. With so much greenwashing in the industry, asking the right questions matters.
From both a “value” and “values” perspective, I recommend responsibly sourced natural diamonds and colored gemstones.
If you’re looking for a diamond engagement ring that also supports climate action, antique and vintage diamonds are your best (and most captivating) option. Whether 4 or 400 years old, post-consumer recycled diamonds have already incurred a cost in their carbon footprint. Diamonds set in jewelry before the early 20th century were cut by eye and hand, giving them unique visual performance and presence.
Modern natural diamonds from Botswana transformed the nation, providing sustainable economic, social, and environmental benefits. Other responsible diamond origins are Canada, Australia, and Namibia, to name a few.
Rare colored gemstones are a better long-term investment than diamonds. Exceptional untreated rubies, emeralds, and sapphires are well-performing hard assets. Lesser-known gemstones like Paraiba tourmaline, spinel, and tsavorite garnet are increasingly sought after by investors and collectors.
Q: Travel seems to be a big part of your life. How has it influenced your work and creativity?
A: Travel is transformational for me, personally and professionally. Experiencing the cultural energy of a place, whether it’s the dynamism of modern London or the rhythm of remote Indonesian islands, feeds my creativity and perspective.
Personally, I took a leap of faith to reset and reframe my life journey in Paris. It might seem risky to some, but it was a worthy investment in my growth. When travels take me to places where gemstones meaningfully support local economies, I try to experience the jewelry supply chain firsthand as much as possible.
Q: What are some of your favorite recent trips, and did they inspire any new ideas for your brand?
A: I just returned from Sri Lanka, a country renowned for Ceylon tea, wildlife, lush landscapes, and rich cultural heritage. Of course, my favorite thing Sri Lanka is celebrated for is sapphires. With their exceptional quality, brilliance, size, and saturation, these sapphires carry a deep legacy.
A highlight of the trip was witnessing a rough sapphire come to life as a faceted gemstone. Their centuries-old cutting tradition, passed down through generations, is still practiced by eye and hand.
There is nothing like being so close to the source of gemstones and meeting the inspiring people and communities who transform rough gemstones from the earth into heirlooms.
Sharing insider access and humanizing the jewelry supply chain are essential to my work and something I will always cultivate for my clients and community.
Q: If you could plan your dream trip tomorrow, where would it be and why?
A: My dream trip would be to East Africa, specifically Kenya and Tanzania. Much like Sri Lanka, I’m drawn to the culture, natural wonders, gemstones, and people. Responsible sourcing looks different all around the world, so having personal experience anywhere that gemstones are a natural resource is profound on multiple levels.
Q: Looking ahead, what is your vision for All the Brilliants in the next few years?
A: My vision is to continue growing as the trusted fine jewelry concierge for people who want their investments to feel deeply personal with intention and connection.
For men, that may mean finding thoughtful jewelry gifts for their wives or partners. For women, it’s often about investing in signature pieces that address a wardrobe need, honor their personal journey, or amplify their visibility.
One service I’m expanding into is holistic jewelry wardrobe edits. This experience helps people rediscover and reconnect with what they already own, documents personal stories behind each piece for future generations, and ensures appraisals and insurance are up to date.