Philippine Dubois on collecting and the future of High Jewelry

By Kristen Oliveri

Philippine Dubois has built her career in one of the most dazzling corners of luxury: High Jewelry. As Private Client Manager for Bulgari North America, she guides clients through a world where artistry, heritage, and rarity converge. In our conversation, Dubois shares her personal journey into the field, offers insight on how aspiring collectors can begin, and reveals what excites her most about the evolving future of High Jewelry.

Let’s start at the beginning — how did you first get into the world of High Jewelry? Was it something you always envisioned for yourself, or did it evolve over time?

I first entered the world of High Jewelry seven years ago when I joined Bulgari. My career initially started in watches, working with various luxury watch brands. When Bulgari approached me to join their team, I thought, “How incredible to work with watches, my passion, and jewelry at the same time!” It was a perfect convergence of my interests, and I’ve been passionate about it ever since.

What drew you specifically to Bulgari? What about the brand's history, design philosophy, or culture speaks to you most?

In the hierarchy of jewelry, High Jewelry represents the pinnacle of design, craftsmanship and quality, and Bulgari is among the top four brands in the world. What sets Bulgari apart, is its ability to combine simplicity with iconic design, while getting inspiration from the Roman city’s art, architecture, and monuments. The magical final sprinkle on top, is living ‘’La Dolce Vita’’ all along the way! Bulgari’s events are filled with joy and celebration, a way of life that truly appeals to me.

Bulgari is known for its bold Italian glamour. How have you come to understand and appreciate the heritage behind the house’s iconic pieces? 

Bulgari’s bold and distinctive designs are immediately recognizable. When you see someone wearing Bulgari, you know it’s Bulgari. The brand is renowned for its mastery of colored gemstones. As Mr. Bulgari said, all colored gemstones are beautiful, which led the brand in the 1950s to start creating pieces that incorporate multiple-colored stones, breaking away from the French tradition of using a single-colored gemstone with diamonds. 

The other iconic collection, Serpenti, started in 1948 with the Serpenti Misteriosi watch, where the head of the snake could open to see the time. The Serpent symbolizes protection, rebirth and renewal. Elizabeth Taylor, who was a fan of the brand while on set for Cleopatra in 1960s, knew one word in Italian, and that was Bulgari. Mr. Bulgari gifted her the famous yellow gold Serpenti Misteriosi watch in 1962 that she wore on set. She owned numerous iconic pieces, some of which were acquired by Bulgari through an auction house in 2011 and subsequently added to our Heritage collection to preserve their historical significance.

The world of High Jewelry can be intimidating to newcomers. How did you educate yourself, and continue learning, about the artistry and craftsmanship behind it?

High Jewelry is a form of art that celebrates the beauty of nature’s gifts. I dedicated many months, and continue to do so, researching gemstones, their characteristics, symbolism, and what makes each stone uniquely valuable. Bulgari also sent me to Rome to see the atelier as well as the gemstone table where Lucia Silvestri, our creative designer, keeps all her colored gemstones and plays with them to create jewels for the next collection.

From your perspective, how does High Jewelry fit into the world of collecting?

High Jewelry is a treasure trove of history and artistry. It’s made to last, passed down through generations, exhibited in museums, auctioned, or even bought back through Bulgari’s curated collections. Building a collection means creating a personal treasure that tells a story, reflects identity, and holds timeless value.

What should a first-time collector keep in mind when building a personal collection? 

Start with pieces that you love and genuinely want to wear. When you wear pieces that bring you joy, your appreciation deepens, and your collection becomes meaningful. Focus on personal connection and intuition, trust your taste, and the rest will follow.

Do you see jewelry as an emotional investment, a statement, or a legacy? Or perhaps a bit of all three?

Personally, I see it as legacy and investment. Whether I have children or family members to pass my collection to, I believe it becomes a treasured inheritance, something they can cherish, wear, or sell, depending on their desires.

What’s your advice for someone just beginning to explore High Jewelry?

Come talk to me. I love sharing my passion and knowledge about this world. Exploring High Jewelry can be a fascinating journey, and I’m here to help you understand the craftsmanship, history, and unique stories behind each piece. And also, watch the 1-hour documentary on Prime called ‘’Inside the Dream’’- this really get’s you a first glance into this world.

Bulgari has such a strong connection to Italy. Do you have a favorite or most memorable trip you’ve taken there for the brand?

Absolutely. Bulgari’s origins trace back to Sotirio Bulgari opening his first store on Via Condotti in Rome in 1884, and that location remains our flagship today. I hosted my new clients, who had acquired several pieces within a few months, to visit the Atelier/Laboratorio. There, they witnessed artisans creating jewels from start to finish, following our creative designer, Lucia Silvestri’s, sketches and stone selection. We also enjoyed authentic Roman pasta at a local restaurant, followed by a tour of our boutique Exhibit on Via Condotti. What wrapped a bow on the whole experience was staying at the Bulgari Hotel, where the level of hospitality is one of the best in the world, as per my client.

Is there a piece in the Bulgari collection — past or present — that holds special meaning for you or that you feel perfectly represents the spirit of the brand?

One piece that truly stands out to me is Bulgari's Monete (meaning coin) collection, particularly the iconic choker tubogas necklace. The story behind it is fascinating, Mr. Nicola Bulgari started collecting ancient coins when he was 11 years old and then thought, “Why don’t we set coins instead of gemstones?’’. These coins can be just as valuable as gemstones, given their historical significance and untouched state. Owning a piece adorned with a coin from 300 years before Christ is something very powerful.

What excites you most about the future of High Jewelry and your own journey within it?

Endless opportunities to fall in love with a new piece of art and keeping the old craftsmanship alive. Also intrigued by the evolving definition of luxury, where rarity, uniqueness, and emotional connection are becoming increasingly important. High Jewelry is poised to continue pushing boundaries, creating new experiences for collectors and connoisseurs. I'm eager to see how High Jewelry will continue to evolve and captivate future generations!